Clean octopus by cutting through eyes and making sure to pull out shell. Cook in ouzo, white wine, fennel, oregano and water to cover. Cook on medium heat at a slow simmer until fork tender, not mushy (about 2 hours). Pull out to cool and dry. Smoke with woodchips of your choice for 10 minutes or until smoke flavor has absorbed. Cut octopus into 6 inch pieces by each leg. Meanwhile, season yogurt with salt, pepper, olive oil, lemon, and fennel pollen. Reserve. In a hot sauté pan, sear octopus in olive oil making sure to get both sides crispy. Pull out of pan and add chanterelles, pickled onions, and sliced lemon wheels. Warm through and add lemon, juice, red wine vinegar, and olive oil. Mix together and season. On a plate, spoon yogurt mixture on bottom. Add octopus and garnish with warm salad.
Match this dish with full and high in acidity white wines or crisp rose wines or light reds.